Episode 408

ADK

Skirting the Issue by Alison Dahl Kelly

Create an elegant double layered lace skirt with a waistband and invisible zipper.

Supplies

Layered skirt pattern (such as BurdaStyle Book Skirt)

1/2 yard of black scallop-edge lace

1/2 yard of lining fabric

Lightweight fusible interfacing

8"-long invisible zipper

Invisible zipper foot

Matching all-purpose thread

2 yards of white 7/8"-wide single fold bias tape

Sew It

Use 1/2" seam allowances.

Download the skirt pattern here; cut out. The longer skirt pattern is the lining pattern. The shorter skirt pattern is the overlay pattern.

From the lace, cut one overlay front on the fold, four overlay sides, one overlay back pair, one front facing on the fold and one back facing pair. Cut the skirt body pieces with the lower edges along the scallops.

From the lining fabric, cut one lining front on the fold, two lining side pairs, one lining back pair, two front facings on the fold and two back facing pairs. Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric.

From the interfacing, cut one front facing on the fold and one back facing pair.

Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing pieces to the corresponding lining wrong sides.

With right sides together and raw edges aligned, pin the lining side panels to the center-front panel; stitch, and then press the seam allowances toward the center-front panel.

With right sides together and raw edges aligned, pin the remaining side panels to the back panels; stitch, and then press the seam allowances toward the back panels.

With right sides together, pin the two assembled back pieces to the assembled front; stitch. Press open the seams, and then trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Repeat to construct the lace overskirt. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4" and zigzag-finish the edges. Press the seam allowances toward the center.

With right sides facing up, align the overskirt over the lining, matching the waistband edges and seams. Baste the waistband seamline. Zigzag stitch the skirt upper edge close to the raw edge.

With right sides together, pin the interfaced back facing short edges to the interfaced front facing short edges; stitch. Press open the seams.

With right sides up, place the corresponding lace facings over the remaining lining facings; pin. Zigzag stitch close to the raw edges to secure. With right sides together, stitch the back facings to the front facing along the short edges.

With right sides together, pin the interfaced facing to the lace facing, aligning the side seams. Stitch the waistband upper edge. Press open the seam, and then trim the seam allowances to 1/4". Turn the waistband right side out; press.

With right sides together, pin the waistband lower edge to the skirt upper edge, aligning the side seams and center back edges; stitch. Press the seam toward the waistband and trim the seam allowance to 1/4".

Baste the overskirt to the lining along the center-back edges. Treat the skirts as a single layer.

Install an invisible zipper foot onto the machine. Open the zipper and place one tape right side down on one skirt center-back edge, aligning the fabric edge with the zipper tape edge and the uppermost zipper teeth with the waistband upper edge; pin. Fold the zipper tape above the uppermost teeth between the zipper and the skirt.

Stitch close to the zipper teeth, beginning at the notch and ending at the waistband upper edge. Repeat to pin and stitch the remaining zipper tape to the remaining skirt edge. Close the zipper.

With right sides together, pin the skirt center back seam below the zipper. Stitch from the notch at the zipper tape lower edge to the skirt lower edge. Press open the seam, and then trim the seam allowances to 1/4".

Unfold one bias tape long edge. Fold one bias tape short end 1/2" toward the wrong side; press. With right sides together, align the bias tape raw edge with the lining skirt lower edge; pin. Beginning at the short folded edge, stitch the tape to the skirt along the bias tape crease. Lap the binding end over the binding beginning. End stitching 1/4" beyond the bias tape beginning. Trim the excess binding. Fold the bias tape toward the skirt wrong side. Topstitch 1/8" from the remaining binding fold.

Products used in this episode:

 

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