Episode 511

vanessa

Tank Girl by Vanessa Wilson

Create your own tank top pattern that fits and flatters. 

Made to Measure

Record your body measurements as follows:

Neck circumference at the fullest point

Front shoulder width: from edge of one shoulder across the chest to the other shoulder

Back shoulder width: from the edge of one shoulder over the prominent point at the neck base to the other shoulder

Front chest: from underarm to underarm across chest

Back width: from underarm to underarm across back

Bust circumference at the fullest point with the measuring tape parallel to the ground

Front waist length: from one side of neck base over the fullest bust point to the waistline

Back waist length: from one side of neck base to the waistline

Waist circumference at the natural waistline

Front tank length: from one side of neck base over the fullest bust point to the desired tank length

Back tank length: from one side of neck base to the desired tank length

Hip circumference at the widest point

Tip: Tie a ribbon snugly around your waist. The point where it settles is your natural waist.

Supplies

2 sheets of poster board

1 yard of lightweight knit fabric

Matching all-purpose thread

3/8"- to 5/8"-wide lightweight fusible interfacing strips

Rulers: curved & straight

Measuring tape

Prepare It

Position one poster board on a flat work surface so the long sides are oriented vertically.

Draw a horizontal line across the board upper edge, at least 1" from the upper edge. Label the line "shoulder line."

Draw a vertical line along the board left edge at least 1" from the edge, intersecting the first line. Label this line "center back."

Plot the following points based on the recorded measurements (1).

TankGirl

Back tank length: Plot this measurement from the line intersection along the center back line. Draw a horizontal line at the point and label "hemline."

Hip circumference: Divide this measurement by four; record. Plot the recorded measurement along the hemline.

Back waist length: Plot this measurement from the upper left line intersection along the center-back line. Draw a horizontal line at that point and label "waistline."

Waist circumference: Divide this measurement by four; record. Plot the recorded measurement along the waistline.

Bustline: Divide the back waist length by two; record. Plot the recorded measurement from the upper left line intersection along the center-back line. Draw a horizontal line at that point and label "bustline."

Bust circumference: Divide this measurement by four; record. Plot the recorded measurement horizontally along the bustline.

Armseye line: Measure from the upper left line intersection to the bustline and divide that measurement by three; record. Plot the recorded measurement up from the bustline. Draw a horizontal line at that point and label "armseye line."

Back width: Divide the back width measurement by two; record. Plot the recorded measurement along the armseye line.

Neckline: Divide the neck circumference by six; record. Plot the recorded measurement along the shoulder line. From the upper left line intersection, measure 1 1/2" along the center-back line; mark. Draw a slightly curved line to connect the two neckline points. This is the back neckline.

Shoulder line: Divide the back shoulder width by two; record. Plot the recorded measurement along the shoulder line. Measure 2" below this point; mark. Draw a straight line connecting this point to the back neckline.

To create the back shoulder slope, draw a straight line connecting the hemline point to waistline point. Connect the waistline point to the bustline point. Connect the shoulder point to armseye point. Draw a slightly curved line to connect the armseye point to the side seam.

Tank Front

Position the remaining poster board on a flat surface with the long sides oriented vertically.

Draw a horizontal line across the board upper edge at least 1" away from the edge. Label this line "shoulder line." 

Draw a vertical line along the right side of the board at least 1" away from the edge, intersecting the first line. Label this line "center front."

Plot the same points as the tank back pattern for the hemline and waistline. For the bustline and armseye line points, use the appropriate front measurements.

Plot the following measurements on the tank front pattern (2).

TankGirl

Neckline: Divide the neck circumference by six; record. Plot the recorded measurement along the shoulder line. From the upper-right line intersection, plot the recorded measurement again along the center-front line. Draw a slightly curved line to connect the two neckline points. This is the front neckline. If desired, scoop the neckline lower depending on the desired finished look.  

Shoulder line: Divide the front shoulder width by two; record. Plot the recorded measurement along the shoulder line. Measure 1 1/4" below this point; mark. To create the front shoulder slope, connect this point to the front neckline point.

Connect the hemline point to waistline point. Connect the waistline point to bustline point. Connect the shoulder line to the armseye point. Draw a slightly curved line to connect the armseye point to the bustline point.

Add a 5/8" seam allowance along each pattern piece perimeter.

Cut It

Wash and press the fabric. Place one pattern piece at a time on the fabric, aligning the center-back and center-front lines with the fabric fold. If using stretch knit, ensure the grainline with the most stretch is parallel to the waistline. Cut one of each pattern piece on the fold.

Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse stabilizer strips to the front and back neckline and armseye-edge wrong sides.

Sew It

Use 5/8" seam allowances, unless otherwise noted.

With right sides together, align the front and back pieces. Pin, and then stitch both shoulder seams. Press open the seams, and then topstitch 1/8" from each side of the seam.

Fold the neckline raw edge 5/8" toward the wrong side; press. Stitch 1/2" from the fold, and then trim the excess fabric close to the stitching.

Fold the armseye edges 5/8" toward the wrong side; press. Stitch 1/4" from the fold, and then trim the excess fabric close to the stitching.

With right sides together, stitch the side seams; press open the seams.

Fold the tank lower edge 5/8" toward the wrong side; stitch 3/8" from the fold. Trim the excess fabric close to the stitching line.

Tip: Instead of hemming, attach a ready-made or handmade skirt to the tank lower edge to create a quick and easy summer dress.

Products used in this episode:

 

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