Episodes - 604

Nicole Smith

That's a Wrap by Nicole Smith, courtesy of Storey Publishing

Wrap skirts are ideal for designers of all skill levels. They're simple to draft, sew, alter and embellish. There are no fussy closures, such as zippers or buttons, and the fit is forgiving, which simplifies pattern drafting.

Supplies

Skirt pattern (such as New Look 6843)

Woven fabric (amount according to pattern envelope plus 1/2 yard)

Lightweight fusible interfacing

Pattern drafting paper

Coordinating all-purpose thread

Hand sewing needle

Draft It

Trace the skirt front onto drafting paper. Extend the center front for 3", drawing a line parallel to the original center front. Flip over the skirt front, aligning the center front with the traced center front. Extend the waistline and hemline to the new center front (1). Extend the lines further for a larger overlap.

Trace the skirt back onto drafting paper and indicate to cut the center back on the fold. If there's a seam allowance at the center back, remove it.

Measure the skirt-back upper edge, minus any darts and seam allowances; record. Draw a rectangle measuring 1"x the recorded measurement for the back-waistband pattern. Repeat to measure the skirt-front upper edge, minus any darts and seam allowances. Draw a rectangle measuring 1"x the recorded measurement for the front-waistband pattern.

Add seam allowances along the waistband pattern perimeter. (Use a seam allowance that matches the rest of the pattern.) Ensure all pattern edges have seam allowances where needed and a 1 1/2" hem allowance along the lower edge.

Cut It

From the fabric, cut one skirt-front pair, four front waistbands, one skirt back on the fold and two back waistbands.

From the interfacing, cut two front waistbands and one back waistband. Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the corresponding waistband pieces.

Cut two 2"-wide ties according to the desired length, plus seam allowances. The ties for the featured skirt are 2"x29" and 2"x44 1/4". (They're different lengths because one wraps further around the body.)

Stitch the skirt front and back darts. Press the darts toward the center.

With right sides together, stitch each skirt front to the skirt back along the side seams; press open the seams. Serge- or zigzag-finish the seam allowances.

Zigzag-finish the skirt lower edge. Fold the lower edge 1 1/2" toward the wrong side. Topstitch 1/4" from the raw edge.

Double-fold the skirt-front raw edges 1/2" toward the wrong side; topstitch close to the first fold.

With right sides together and raw edges aligned, stitch the interfaced front waistbands to the interfaced back waistband along the side seams. In the right waistband seam, leave a centered 3/4" opening in the seam to slip the tie through. Backstitch at the opening beginning and end. Press open the seams. Repeat to assemble the remaining waistband pieces, leaving the centered opening in the right waistband seam (2).

Fold one short edge of each tie 1/4" toward the wrong side; press. Fold each long edge 1⁄4" toward the wrong side; press. Press the ties in half with wrong sides together; edgestitch the open edges.

With raw edges aligned, baste the short tie raw end to the right front-skirt interfaced waistband, centering the tie on the waistband right side (3). Baste the long tie unfinished end to the left skirt front in the same manner.

With right sides together and raw edges aligned, pin the interfaced waistband to the skirt upper edge, aligning the side seams. Extend each waistband end 1/2" beyond the skirt front edges. Stitch, and then press the seam allowances toward the waistband.

Fold the remaining waistband lower edge 1/2" toward the wrong side; press. Pin the waistband facing to the waistband with right sides together and upper edges aligned. Stitch the sides and upper edge. Clip the corners and turn the waistband right side out; press. Stitch in the ditch along the waistband seamline from the skirt right side, catching all layers.

Slipstitch the waistband and facing together at the side-seam opening so the slit remains open but the edges are finished (4; illustrations to come).

Nicole Smith

Source

Simplicity provided the pattern: (888) 588-2700, simplicity.com.

 

Products used in this episode:

 

 

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