Episode 905

erin weisbart

Up in Arms by Erin Weisbart

Learn how to set in sleeves using a flat sleeve insertion technique and create an easy breezy gathered blouse.

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Supplies

1 1/2 yards of 45" wide lightweight fabric with drape (such as rayon challis, cotton gauze or voile, silk chiffon or charmeuse)

All-purpose thread

Prepare

Using a flexible tape measure, take your high bust measurement. The gathering at the bustline provides lots of style ease so bust adjustments shouldn't be necessary regardless of your cup size.

S = 32" high bust

M = 34" high bust

L = 36" high bust

XL = 39" high bust

Download the pattern here; print, and then cut out the size based on the measurements above.  

From the fabric, cut two front yokes on the fold, two back yokes on the fold, two front/back pieces on the fold, and two sleeves on the fold. Designate one front yoke and one back yoke as the lining.

Transfer all pattern markings onto the fabric.

Construct

Use 5/8" seam allowances unless otherwise noted.

Using a 1/2" seam allowance, staystitch the neckline of each yoke piece.

Select a long basting stitch on the machine. Stitch two rows of gathering stitches using a 1/2" and 3/4" seam allowance on the front and back body pieces between the circles.

With right sides together, align the front body and the front yoke along the bust seam, matching circles and notches and evenly distributing gathers; stitch. Repeat to attach the back body to the back yoke.

Press the seam allowance toward the yoke, being careful not to press the gathers. Remove the gathering stitches and grade the seam allowances, trimming the lining seam allowance to 1/8".

With right sides together, align the front and back yoke; stitch the shoulder seams, and then press open the seam allowances. Repeat to stitch the front and back lining.

Fold the yoke lining lower edges 1/2" toward the wrong side; press.

With right sides together, align the yoke and yoke lining pieces; stitch the neckline. Grade the seam allowances. Clip the seam allowances every 1/2" through the staystitching and up to, but not through, the seamline. Press the seam allowances toward the yoke. Understitch the yoke lining 1/8" from the seamline.

Pin the yoke to the yoke lining along the bust seam, aligning the lining fold just beyond the stitching. Stitch in the ditch of the bust seamline, catching the yoke lining fold in the stitching.

With right sides together, align the sleeve with the armscye, matching the raw edges, notches and the sleeve center dot with the shoulder seam. Stitch the sleeve seam, evenly distributing the sleeve ease. Finish the sleeve cap seam allowances using pinking shears or a serger, if desired.

Clip into the seam allowances along the armscye curve up to, but not through, the stitching.

With right sides together, align the sleeve underarm seam and side seam, matching the sleeve edges and hem. Beginning at the sleeve, stitch the underarm/side seam. Finish the seam using pinking shears or a serger, if desired.

Hem the sleeves and blouse lower edge using a narrow hem.

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