Episode 907

deborah moebes

True Collars by Deborah Moebes

Sew better collars and collar stands by trying three different methods.

Supplies

Shirt pattern with collar & collar stand

Fabric & notions (according to pattern envelope)

All-purpose thread

Lightweight fusible interfacing

Prepare

Download the free collar pattern to practice the following techniques.

From the shirt fabric and interfacing, cut out all pieces denoted by the pattern guidesheet.

Stitch the shirt shoulder seams and center front placket according to the pattern guidesheet. Staystitch the shirt neckline edge at the seamline; clip the neckline curve at 1" intervals. Attach the collar to the shirt before stitching the side seams and inserting the sleeves.

Adhere the corresponding interfacing pieces to one collar and one collar-stand wrong sides, ensuring the interfacing is 1/2" smaller on all sides than the fabric.

Traditional Method

collar

Trim each short straight edge and the long edge of the uninterfaced collar by 1/8".

With right sides together, align the collar pieces. Beginning along one short edge, stitch the collar outer edges, gently pulling the collar corner to align the raw edges and pivoting at the corners. Leave the neckline edge free. Clip the points, and then turn the collar right side out. Press, favoring the seam toward the uninterfaced collar.

If desired, topstitch the collar finished edges. Baste the neckline edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.

Fold the interfaced collar stand straight edge 1/2" toward the wrong side; press.

With the right side facing up, place the interfaced collar stand on a flat work surface. Place the collar interfaced side down over the collar stand, aligning the collar neckline edge with the collar stand curved edge. Place the uninterfaced collar stand right side down over the collar, aligned with the first collar stand.

Stitch the collar stand curved edge, beginning at the uninterfaced collar-stand edge and catching the collar neckline edge in the seam (1). Trim the interfaced collar stand seam allowances 1/8" from the seam. Trim the collar seam allowances slightly longer. Clip the seam allowances along the curves. Turn the collar stand right side out, using a chopstick or point turner to push out the curves; press. Ensure the collar stand seam allowance beyond the folded edge is pressed toward the wrong side at the stitching line.

Align the uninterfaced collar stand with the shirt neckline edge; ensuring the collar stand edge aligns with the shirt placket edge; pin. Manually lower the needle into the collar at the edge. Stitch, backstitching at the beginning and end.

Press the seam allowances toward the collar. Align the collar-stand folded edge over the neckline stitching, encasing the raw edges. With the wrong side facing up, edgestitch the collar-stand perimeter, closing the neckline opening. Or hand stitch the neckline opening closed.

Alternate Method A

Assemble the collar per the Traditional Method, up to and including the basting step. With right sides together, stitch the uninterfaced collar stand to the shirt neckline.

Sandwich and stitch the collar between the two collar stands and stitch per the Traditional Method. Grade the seam allowances. Turn the collar stand right side out; press the seam allowances toward the collar stand. Edgestitch the collar-stand perimeter, closing the neckline opening with the stitches.

Alternate Method B

With right sides together, align the interfaced collar stand with the interfaced collar lower edge. Stitch, and then press open the seam allowances. Repeat to stitch the remaining collar and collar stand.

Fold the interfaced collar stand straight edge 1/2" toward the wrong side; press.

With right sides together, align the uninterfaced collar-stand neckline edge with the shirt neckline edge. Place the interfaced collar right sides together with the uninterfaced collar, matching seamlines and raw edges.

Stitch the neckline, making sure not to catch the collar-stand fold in the seam. Stitch the collar pieces, beginning and ending at the opposite neckline opening. Clip the corners and trim or grade seam allowances. Turn the collar and stand right side out; press. Align the collar-stand fold over the neckline stitching. Edgestitch the collar and stand perimeter, closing the neckline opening. Or hand stitch the neckline opening closed.

Products used in this episode:

 

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