Episode 908

To the Maxi

To the Maxi by Laura Wyatt

Channel your inner fashionista in a fully lined, custom-fit maxi skirt.

Supplies

2 1/4 yards each of 60"-wide jersey knit (outer) & tissue jersey (lining) with 50% stretch

1 1/4"-wide waistband elastic (amount according to measurements)

Matching all-purpose thread

Rulers: 48" metal straight edge & hip curve

Pattern or butcher paper

Stretch sewing machine needle

Serger (optional)

Draft

Measure your waist at the desired skirt waistband placement, the widest part of your hip and the desired skirt length; record.

Place a large piece of pattern paper on a flat work surface.

Draw a straight horizontal line several inches from the paper lower edge; label as the hemline.

Measure up from the hemline according to the skirt length; mark. Draw a horizontal line across the paper at the mark; label as the waistline.

Divide the waist measurement by four, and then add 4" for ease and seam allowances; record. Measure from the paper right edge along the waistline according to this measurement; mark.

Measure 7" down from the waistline; mark. Draw a horizontal line across the paper at the mark; label as the hip line.

Divide the hip measurement by four, and then add 4" for ease and seam allowances. Measure from the right edge along the hip line according to this measurement; mark.

Measure 19" from the right edge along the hemline; mark. This hem width allows for walking ease and seam allowances. Adjust the hem width as desired for fullness.

Measure down from the skirt upper edge according to the elastic width, minus seam allowances; mark. For example, for 1 1/4"-wide elastic, measure 1" from the skirt upper edge to account for 1/4" seam allowances. Draw the new waistline across the pattern.

At the skirt lower edge, add 1 1/4" for the hem allowance. Curve the hemline up slightly at the side seam using a curved ruler.

Draw a line connecting the waistline, hip line and hemline marks; this is the side-seam cutting line (1). Mark a notch at the hip line/side seam and center-front and -back upper edges.

diagram

Cut

Place a layer of paper, such as pattern or butcher paper or newspaper, on a flat work surface. Place the skirt fabric over paper. Place the pattern piece on the fabric fold.

From the skirt and lining fabric each, cut two skirts. Cut the lining skirts 1/2" shorter than the outer skirts.

Cut the hip-line notches at the side seam and the center front and center back notches at the waistline on all pieces.

Construct      

With right sides together, align the outer-skirt pieces, matching the notches and raw edges. Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, stitch each side seam using a 1/4" seam allowance. If using a serger, don't trim off any excess fabric. Repeat to stitch the lining. Press all seam allowances toward the skirt back.

With wrong sides together, insert the lining inside the skirt, aligning the seams, center front and back and upper edge. Serge or stitch with the skirt fabric facing up.

If using a serger, serge the skirt lower edge. Repeat for the lining.

Subtract 1" from the waist measurement; cut the elastic to this measurement, ensuring it will still comfortably stretch over the hips. Fold the elastic in half widthwise. Fold the raw ends 1/2" toward one side. Fold again toward the same side. Edgestitch each fold.

Quarter-mark the elastic. With right sides facing up, lap the elastic 1/4" over the skirt upper edge, aligning the elastic overlap with the center back notch and the remaining quarter marks with the skirt side seams and center front.

Select a 3.5mm-long zigzag stitch.

Beginning at the center back, place the elastic under the presser foot with the skirt against the feed dogs.

Hold the elastic and fabric behind the needle, but don't pull. Stretch the elastic to match the skirt length in each quarter section.

Fold the skirt lower edge 1/4" toward the wrong side. With the right side facing up, stitch a scant 1/4" from the fold. Repeat for the lining.

Fold the skirt lower edge another 1" toward the wrong side. With the right side facing up, stitch 5/8" from the fold; press. Repeat for the lining.

Skirt

Sources

Nature's Fabrics provided the fashion fabric: naturesfabrics.com.

Fabrics.com provided the lining fabric: fabrics.com.

Products used in this episode:

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