Episode 910

melissa mora

Pickup Artist Skirt by Melissa Mora

Create a special occasion skirt that's simple to sew and easy to wear.

Supplies

Polyester satin lining fabric (amount according to measurements)

Chiffon fabric (outer; amount according to measurements)

2"-wide elastic (amount according to measurements)

1 1/2"-wide satin ribbon (amount according to measurements)

Matching all-purpose thread

Construct

Use 1/2" seam allowances unless otherwise noted.

Measure your waist at the desired skirt waistband placement; record. Determine the desired finished skirt length; record. Multiply the waist measurement by 1 1/2. If making the skirt for a pear-shaped body, ensure the multiplied waist measurement is 2" to 3" larger than the hip measurement.

From the lining fabric, cut one rectangle according to this measurement and 1" longer than the desired finished length. Cut one rectangle measuring 4"x the waist measurement for the waistband. Cut the elastic to the same length.

Multiply the waist measurement by 2. From the outer fabric, cut a rectangle according to this measurement and twice as long as lining fabric.

Multiply the waist measurement by 3. From the ribbon, cut a length according to this measurement.

With right sides together, fold the lining rectangle in half along the waistline edge. Stitch the long raw edge; press open the seam. Repeat to fold the outer-fabric rectangle in half lengthwise; stitch one long edge. Fold the waistband in half widthwise; stitch the short edges, and then press open. These are the skirt center-back seams.

Select a long basting stitch on the machine. Stitch 1/4" and 3/8" from each outer-fabric raw edge, leaving long thread tails at the beginning and end. With right sides together, align the lining and outer fabrics, matching the seams and the raw edges at one end of the tubes. Gently pull the basting stitches to evenly gather the outer fabric to match the lining; pin, and then stitch. This is the skirt hem.

Remove the basting stitches, and then turn the skirt right side out.

With wrong sides together, align the lining and outer-fabric raw edges and center back seams. Gently pull the basting stitches to evenly gather the outer fabric to match the lining; pin.

With right sides together, align the waistband with the skirt upper edge, matching the seams and raw edges; pin, and then stitch.

Press the waistband raw edge 1/4" toward the wrong side. Fold the waistband toward the skirt lining, enclosing the raw edges and aligning the fold just beyond the stitching line; pin. With the right side facing up, stitch in the ditch of the waistband seam, leaving a 1" to 2" opening to insert the elastic.

Pin a safety pin to one elastic short end. Thread the elastic through the waistband casing, ensuring the elastic doesn't twist. Lap the elastic short ends by 1/2".

Select a wide zigzag stitch on the machine. Stitch along the elastic overlap. Continue stitching the waistband closed.

Place the skirt on a dress form. If a dress form isn't available, clip two pants hangers to the skirt waistband to keep it open; hang on a closet rod. Beginning at the upper edge and working around the skirt circumference, and then down, pick up the outer fabric, and then place a pin through the outer and lining fabrics under the pickup. Continue working around the skirt, pinning approximately 12 to 16 pickups so the draping is pleasing to your eye.

Select a short, narrow zigzag stitch on the machine. Stitch each pickup in place for 1/2", backstitch at the beginning and end. Turn the skirt wrong side out to ensure no pins remain.

Fold the ribbon in half widthwise; pin-mark the center. Align the ribbon center with the waistband center back. Stitch the ribbon widthwise center to the skirt using a straight stitch.

Products used in this episode:

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