Episode 912

Stephanie Ohnmacht

Tee Style by Stephanie Ohnmacht

Discover two different sleeve treatments to transform ready-made tops from ordinary to extraordinary.

Flutter Sleeve 

Combine two shirts into one for a fun color-blocked effect with a flutter sleeve.

Supplies

2 contrasting ready-made knit long sleeve tops

All-purpose thread

Construct

Cut away each sleeve at the armscye seam from the shirt that will be used for the sleeves. Cut away the serged edge from the sleeve cap. Press the sleeve flat. Fold the shoulder cap at the underarm seam, ensuring the sleeve remains on grain. One side of the sleeve will fold at the underarm seam while fold on the opposite may be slightly deeper (1).

Cut along the sleeve-cap edge; unfold. Fold the sleeve in half along the sleeve-cap center; cut along the fold. Smooth the sleeve-petal curves using scissors. Lay both petals flat.

Lap the sleeve petals along straight edge by 8" (2).

Repeat to cut away the remaining sleeve from the shirt and create the sleeve petals. Overlap the petals in the opposite direction.

Select a long gathering stitch on the machine. Stitch along each sleeve straight edge using a 1/4" seam allowance, backstitching at the beginning and leaving long thread tails at the end. Fold each sleeve in half along the straight edge; pin-mark the center, and then unfold. Gather each sleeve width to 9" or adjust the final sleeve width as desired.

Cut away the sleeves along the armscye seam from the shirt that will be used for the bodice.

With right sides together and raw edges aligned, pin one petal sleeve to the shirt body along the armscye, aligning the sleeve center with the shoulder seam. Select a straight stretch stitch on the machine. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, stitch the sleeve to shirt body. Press the seam allowance toward the shirt body. At the sleeve edges, fold the shirt 1/2" toward the wrong side; press.

Topstitch the shirt along the armscye seam using a 1/4" seam allowance, securing the seam allowances and finishing the remaining armscye.  

Gathered Sleeve

Add a gathered detail to a sleeve for fashion and function.

Supplies

3/4 or long-sleeved knit ready-made top

28" length of 1/4"-wide grosgrain ribbon

All-purpose thread

Construct

Place the shirt on a flat work surface. Press to create a fold along the sleeve from the shoulder seam to the cuff.  

Measure and mark 10" from the underarm toward the cuff. Cut away the sleeve below the mark.

From the cut-away sleeve portion, cut two 1 1/2"x8" strips. With wrong sides together, fold each strip in half lengthwise; press.

Fold one sleeve cut edge 1/2" toward the wrong side; press. Select a stretch or zigzag stitch on the machine. Using the machine free arm, stitch along the cut edge.

Turn the sleeve wrong side out. Place one casing strip along the sleeve fold, aligning the centerlines and one short edge 1/8" from the sleeve hem; pin.

Place the sleeve under the presser foot through the neck opening. Beginning at the upper edge, stitch the casing to the sleeve along the center foldline, backstitching at the beginning and end. Repeat to edgestitch each strip long edge.

Attach a safety pin to one ribbon end. Beginning at the sleeve hem, thread the ribbon through the casing to the upper edge, and then back down the other casing. Gather the sleeve along the ribbon and tie the ribbon ends at the desired length.

Repeat to attach the remaining casing to the remaining sleeve.

Products used in this episode:

 

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